UNCORKING THE SEASON: THE HIDDEN INFLUENCES BEHIND OUR PICKS
By Kendall Holmes - January 23rd
Why do we drink what we drink when we drink it?
This is one of those questions that some people spend a lot of time thinking about and most people spend very little time thinking about. We all drink seasonally, but this is largely due to the efforts of selective professionals who curate what the public drinks by rotating inventory, bringing in exclusives and showcasing certain products and producers.
So what do those pros think about when they hear the word ‘seasonality’ or consider seasonal drinking? What makes a wine right for a particular season?
Marketing
Least fundamental, but most visible is marketing and branding. Much of this is determined by aspects that have very little to do with the more romantic aspects of wine culture. Much of it concerns moving inventory that piles up, favoring producers with a known name, making up for bad farming practices and other hidden factors that the consumer is never meant to know. But customer-facing are the more controllable elements such as design and branding.
If I release a wine in late October and I design my label depicting a cornucopia with a bunch of apples and corn and muted earthy tones and colors, it becomes clear what I’m trying to communicate: drink this wine immediately, right now, in the fall. This is a particularly blunt example of that dynamic, but shows how branding can lead a consumer towards a certain behavior. The branding and marketing tells a retailer the best way to merchandise and the end consumer what to purchase and when. However, the branding and marketing is determined by even more fundamental factors that determine our seasonal drinking habits.
The Grape Itself
Nested closer to the core of seasonal drinking more than marketing is the persuasive power of the characteristics of the grape varietal itself. This of course is an aspect that is only available to those who have the knowledge and vocabulary to discern differences in grape varietals but is shallowly available to anyone who can read a label.
The richness or lightness of a glass of wine can help determine if it’s more appropriate for cool or warm weather. Fruitier flavors might refresh and evoke a summer feel. Toasty, rich reds may echo flavors of cold earth and baking spices, reminding one of the holidays and winter weather. Tannic grapes offer another dimension of texture that may remind one of the feeling of familiar fabrics and other materials associated with certain seasons. A low tannin Grenache or crisp Pinot Grigio may feel more appropriate at the summer BBQ than a Left Bank Bordeaux or Maconnaise Chardonnay. We tend to know when flavors are clashing pretty instinctively, which is why the most salient aspect of seasonal drinking is how we pair it with the foods we eat.
Food and Pairing
In our modern society it may be hard to see the seasonality at work in our food systems, but they are there. Yes apples and strawberries are available all year round these days, but in winter, citrus variety becomes more abundant. In summer those same strawberries get redder and sweeter and the tomato basket in the grocery gets piled high.
In the preindustrial age, people ate what was available in the season, which may include preserved foods from previous seasons that become staples of that season. I think of the ham hock in a pot of greens or beans, or the dried fruit used to thicken a stew in winter and the popcorn we munch in front of our winter fires. Because wine is agricultural, it follows the same cycles of growth and harvest, abundance and fallowness as the food crops we grow. Spring and summer are the times we eat fresher, younger vegetables. In the northern hemisphere, spring and summer is when the lambs and other suckling animals are born. Summer is BBQ season. Fall and winter are for roasts and braises, root vegetables and grains.
All these cultural habits are determined by season. We thereby use our inherent knowledge of flavor chemistry to pair our foods with drinks that have the same cultural pressures and determinants that the food we grow has. Tradition and precedence rule the table in our societies. This is why the general rule tends to be “what grows together, goes together.” It’s an easy rubric to pass down and has the benefit of being generally true. That salad made from Italian bitter greens and a light dressing needs something equally light. A fruity character will counteract the bitterness. If I’m in Rhone eating a hearty winter beef stew, the flavors of the Syrah based blends complement the richness of a meaty broth quite well. The artisans of the regions in which these foodways develop understand almost instinctively. This can be expanded to the wider world as one’s knowledge of wine geography and soil composition increase. You may be able to make analogies between regions based on terroir-based similarities, thereby surprising and delighting the palette with new and interesting wine and food pairings. Food from Peruvian highlands with an Alpine wine perhaps? Yes regionality is important, but we are all on the same planet, using the same elements and materials to create an incredible variety of experiences and this affords opportunities for creative connections across geography.
The Earth
Finally the prime determinant of seasonality is nature itself. The turning of the earth and the orbit around the sun ultimately are the reasons we eat and drink what we do and when we do it. For almost all crops that humans value, the harvest comes in late summer and early autumn. Historically for most crops, everything is harvested and processed in one frenzy of activity. For wine that generally means there is juice in barrel or tank before the fall season is over. Depending on the temperature, fermentation is a quick process usually measured in days. Once the desired alcohol level is achieved aging occurs, which is generally measured in months. This means that the youngest wines will be ready to drink in the springtime and early summer and those that have longer elevage may be released in the following autumn or winter. Of course, many wines are not intended to be opened immediately upon release, but aged wines still carry the mark of the season and are appropriate for different tables. This cycle of gathering in the fall, processing in the winter and distribution in the spring echoes the life of a plant in a temperate environment. The abundance of spring is mimicked by the wine distributor’s spring portfolio show.
The Seasons
Spring:
After the thaw many people are ready to shed their winter coats and embrace the newness of spring. This is the time for young roses and whites. We are eating the first shoots and leaves that grow. Maybe they are combined with the last of the winter crops like potatoes and cabbages. Either way we want to be reminded of what’s fresh, so we drink crispy wines that maybe have a touch of winter hanging on them: Sancerre and Muscadet, young roses. Minerally reds that evoke the warming earth in spring: Grenache, certain Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo.
Summer:
We are ready to be refreshed! Sun, guns and buns out mean that crisp and light are on the menu. We may be popping Prosecco and Cava, continuing our Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc love affair or chilling a light red like Gamay or Mencia to drink at the picnic.
Fall:
The autumn harvest is a time for wine that feels ripe and cozy. The harvest time is a busy time that has us enjoying abundance, but also preparing for the coming winters. At these times we may begin looking to the cellar for bottles with a little age on them. Chenin blanc, Viognier and southern french white blends may look nice on the fall table. Often Beaujolais and lighter Burgundies grace the Thanksgiving table.
Winter:
Holiday time is a time for sharing special moments. We are often entertaining and mixing it up with people we may not see often. In these moments we may want to go deeper into the cellar and grab a nicer bottle of Champagne, Bordeaux or Burgundy to pair with holiday fare, which tends to be a bit grander. This is when the Syrahs, Barolos and Cabernet Sauvignons get popped. Winter is also a lovely time for rich Burgundian Chardonnays, with their texture provided by subtle oak application.
In Summary -
We all drink what we want to drink. Our selections are largely driven by our desire to experience a certain wine for a certain reason: The vintage matches our child’s birth year; I need a flavorful red for these steaks I bought; I’m just trying to relax with something easy. Any wine shop can satisfy these requests, but a host of decisions and curation has occurred before the customer is standing in front of that shelf, perusing. The professionals at your favorite wine spot are in the business of keeping it seasonal for you.
In that spirit please explore these seasonal wines we’ve curated for you at the bottom of the page.
- Cheers from The Cru!
