HUBERT LIGNIER: As I will often state, one of the major rules of buying wine is: Producer, Producer, Producer. This is a statement said by many wine professionals. As the journey goes and bottles get consumed with friends, certain producers just stand out for consistency and delicious wines that give goosebumps and possibly even create a bit of sadness after the last bottle is finished.
HUBERT LIGNIER is one of these OG producers in a region that can be insanely difficult to navigate buying. Great Burgundy is something I cherish and once you start drinking Pinot Noirs like these, it really changes the way you look at the varietal. The production levels on these wines are tiny and insanely hard to come by. The family has been farming their land for five generations, since the 1880s, and has always passed it on to the next generation. With some incredible vineyards, the idea of "site" makes great wines, it is insanely true with the wines of Hubert Lignier. The farming is not just a chore for the Ligniers: it is part of who they are. They follow the principles of lutte raisonnée (sensible combat) in their viticulture, using practices of low intervention and only organic compost when necessary. They have been following the low intervention way before it became the hip term on sommeliers' rap sheets. The Domaine is located in the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis, part of the Northern Slopes of the Côte-d'Or. I have always loved this region in Burgundy due to the texture and elegance that the wines have. The family manages 22 acres of vines and makes 24 different wines from these vineyards.
THE WINES OF HUBERT LIGNIER
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS, TRILOGIE : Vines planted in 1936, 1942, 1964, 1972
2.5 acres in three climates: Chenevery (60%), Clos Solon (15%), Porroux (25%).
These three parcels from the north and south of the village, on the edge of the Premiers Crus, produce low yields (30 hl/ha on average) due to the age of the vines.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, LES SEUVREES : Vines planted between 1938 and 1966. Covering an area of 2.55 acres, this terroir located below the Mazoyères Grand Crus gives us meaty, subtle wines. With excellent cellar-aging potential, this is a Gevrey with a strong character but a tender heart.
GEVERY-CHAMBERTIN, 1ER CRU AUX COMBOTTES : Vines planted in 1957 with 150 m2 of vine area. This 7.5-acre terroir is surrounded by 3 Grands Crus: Latricières Chambertin to the north, Charmes Chambertin to the east and Clos de la Roche on its southern and western sides.
POMMARD, EN BRESCUL : Vines planted in 1997, acquired in 2013. Covering an area of 410 m2, this terraced parcel overlooks the town of Beaune and the Clos des Mouches.